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| === Sound Dampening === | | === Sound Dampening === |
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| 10-Nov-2010
| | I moved this story to its own page, see [[Seeking a quieter Yaris]]. |
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| I got an estimate on materials of $500 from Don Sambrook. At first I thought I'd go for 1/2 of that, not because it's too expensive but because I think it's overkill. But after a few more emails with Don I decided to order the whole kit and install it in stages to see how it goes. I don't want to get halfway done and have to place another order. | |
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| Here is the complete quote.
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| Brian,
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| Not surprisingly, there's been a lot of interest in making Yaris' quieter. Here's a recent quote for another customer with a 2010 3-door:
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| Doors (each):
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| 7 CLD Tiles, outer skin
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| 3 CLD Tiles, probably cut into smaller pieces, inner skin
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| Extruded Butyl Rope
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| 3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
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| Clean the outer skin thoroughly. No matter how clean the rest of the vehicle is, the inside of the doors is likely to be filthy. I use denatured alcohol on a rag. Wipe it down until the rag comes out clean.
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| Start by pressing Extruded Butyl Rope (EBR) between the outer skin and the side impact protection beams. Leave gaps every few inches to allow water to drain. Cut some strips from a heavy plastic bag and press them into the top surface of the EBR to protect it from dirt.
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| Apply half the CLD Tiles allocated to the outer skin above and half below the side impact protection beam. Cut 2 more CLD Tiles into smaller pieces and apply them to the inner door skin.
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| Start with passenger side - the driver side is almost always a mirror image of the passenger side with one or two more connectors. Hang MLV on the inner door skin using Velcro Strips with pressure sensitive adhesive on both sides. The strips are 2"X4" but you can cut them in half for this application (most applications really). Start with 2 pieces in the top corners to hold the MLV in place while you trim it to fit. You want it to be as large as it can be - just barely fitting inside the trim panel when it is replaced. You will need to cut some holes in the MLV to allow cables, rods, shafts, wires, clips and the speakers to come through. You want these holes to be as small as possible. Every place we use MLV we are building a barrier and a barrier needs to be as large and contiguous as possible.
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| It helps during the fitting process to periodically remove the MLV from the door and lay it in the trim panel to test fit it. The Velcro makes this easy. When you first hang the MLV on the door, cut holes where the trim panel clips go into the door. You can then use these holes to orient the MLV inside the trim panel.
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| When you are satisfied with the MLV fit, add two more Velcro Strip pieces to the bottom corners. It's generally a good idea to add a third piece on top for added strength. Try the fitted MLV on the driver side door. If it fits (reversed) use it as a template. You've just saved yourself a lot of time. If it doesn't, sorry to get your hopes up :)
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| Finally, use HH-66 Vinyl Cement to tack a layer of closed cell foam (CCF) on the side of the MLV facing the trim panel. When the trim panel is reinstalled, the CCF will compress slightly, getting rid of rattles and buzzes in the trim panel itself and between the trim panel and the inner door skin.
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| Kick Panels (each):
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| .5 CLD Tiles
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| 1 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides (cut into thirds)
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| Here's how I hang MLV and 1/8" CCF on vertical surfaces, other than doors, or anchor them to horizontal surfaces where they might otherwise slide around:
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| http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/pdf/CCF_MLV_2side_Velcro.pdf
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| Floor:
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| 10 CLD Tiles
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| I've specified 1/2 the number of CLD Tiles the area would normally indicate. Most vehicles have some stock vibration damper on the floor. Assuming it is in good condition and you don't intend to pull it out, this should be enough to treat the bare metals areas. There's nothing to be gained from adding CLD Tiles on top of existing material.
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| Cut 1/4" CCF to fit the bottoms of the floor pans and up into the foot wells and lay it in place. You really don't need any adhesive or other attachment products for the floor. Gravity, the carpet and trim panels will hold everything in place. Finally, lay MLV on top of the CCF, extending up and over the center tunnel, sills and everywhere you can without interfering with trim panel replacement. You will need to cut holes for the seat bolt downs and seat belt anchors if they are on the floor. Again, make these holes as small as possible. You are basically upholstering the floor with MLV. MLV is quite flexible and will easily follow a simple curve. Where it needs to be fitted to complex curves you will need to do some cutting. Use HH-66 to seal the seams in the MLV as you go, overlapping about 1/2".
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| Back Seat Ledge and Riser:
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| 6 CLD Tiles
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| 3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
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| Roof:
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| 12 CLD Tiles
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| CLD Tiles are the critical treatment for the roof - it's a large resonant panel directly over your head. Lining the roof with a layer of 1/4" CCF is an optional additional step that I don't include by default because it has a fairly low acoustical value, mitigating mostly high frequency air turbulence noise. It does have a good thermal value. If that's a concern, it is worth considering.
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| Cargo Floor:
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| 8 CLD Tiles
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| 3 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
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| Quarter Panels (each):
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| 7 CLD Tiles
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| 4 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
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| Hatch Door:
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| 3 CLD Tiles
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| 2 Velcro Strips, Adhesive 2 sides
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| General Notes
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| HH-66 is a contact adhesive that will only bond materials with vinyl content. That means MLV to MLV, CCF (like the material I sell with vinyl content) to CCF and MLV to CCF. You need to coat both surfaces and let them dry until just tacky, 3-5 minutes. Press the two parts together. The bond is more than strong enough to work with immediately. It will achieve its full strength after a few hours.In most cases you won't need to coat the entire surface - tacking in a few spots is usually sufficient.
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| or thirds, for all but the most demanding applications. When working with the self-adhesive side(s) of the Velcro Strips press the entire assembly into place. It is a good idea to gently separate the hook and loop sides and press them down by individually to make sure the bond is complete.
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| Totals:
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| 74 CLD Tiles
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| 1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
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| 20 Velcro Strips, adhesive 2 sides
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| 1 32 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement
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| As an Order:
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| 74 CLD Tiles @ 2.25 = $166.50
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| 1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope @ 8.75 = 8.75
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| 2 sheets 1/4" CCF @ 27.65 = 55.30
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| 5 sheets 1/8" CCF @ 14.55 = 72.75
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| 2 Velcro Strips, adh. 2 sides, 10-pack @ 14.65 = 29.30
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| 1 32 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Contact Cement @ 15.25 = 15.25
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| 1 2" Maple Roller (Free w/ 60+ CLD Tiles) N/C
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| Sub Total: $499.52
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| Shipping will depend on your city and zip.
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| --
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| Don Sambrook
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| Sound Deadener Showdown, LLC
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| 410.458.6418
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| http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com
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| === GPS === | | === GPS === |
We bought a 2010 Toyota Yaris in May. First time for a new car. We named her "Alba" because she is white.
I have been having a lot of fun with the car, mostly changing it, and on rare occasions, driving it.
Alba, the name
substantia alba the whitish tissue of the brain and spinal cord, consisting mainly of myelinated nerve fibres (World English Dictionary)
Alba replaces our beloved 1985 Chevy Sprint (aka Suzuki Swift) with 380,000 miles on it. If I could buy a 2010 Swift I would have. I loved the 992 cc 3 cyl engine and the 5 speed gearbox and the small size. This sounds like a lament!
"alba: in the music of the troubadours, the 11th- and 12th-century poet-musicians of southern France, a song of lament for lovers parting at dawn or of a watchman's warning to lovers at dawn. A song of the latter type sometimes takes the form of a dialogue between a watchman and a lover. Some sources consider the alba an early form of an aubade, though unlike the alba an aubade is usually a celebration of the dawn. Examples of albas for which music also survives include Reis glorios by Giraut de Bornelh (c. 1140-c. 1200) and the anonymous Gaite de la tor. The minnesingers, the German counterparts of the troubadours, also used the form, calling it Tagelied ("day song")."
dictionary.reference.com
The story so far
I am making changes because it's fun but mostly my goal is higher MPG, just to see what is possible, not because it saves money. We are currently getting 39-41 mpg.
When I had no money, I had sports cars (MG, Fiat, Opel). Now I can afford a new car and I value reliability and comfort for longer trips. (We now ride bicycles for 95% of our road miles.) I still want a car that's fun to drive but I need a place to carry luggage and bicycles too. Alba is the best compromise we could find today.
- 19mm Ultraracing rear swaybar (yes, it's a great addition)
- UBlox AEK-4P GPS receiver with rooftop antenna
- Cabin air filter
- Cruise control using a momentary toggle switch + two buttons
- Removed rear seat and built a cargo deck.
- Micro Image belly pan installed, keeping the engine nice and clean and possibly adding 1 mpg?
- Pin stripes :-) I had some tape leftover from some other project so why not?
- USB power outlets (using a 7805 regulator for now, something better later)
- Rear power outlet (in back of console)
- Powerpole outlets (next to stock power outlet)
- LED interior lights
- LED park lights
- LED license plate light
- LED reverse lights
- Garmin 1390T + Ecoroute HD navigation system
The wish list
- OBD II interface (have one now but need a computer to hook it up to)
- Solar panel install, replaces stock hood. (Just an idea!)
- Intermittent wiper switch
- Underdrive pullies (Microimage NST)
- Put some pictures here
- USB charger cable for Motorola phones
- Paint (MC Escher pictures)
- Smoother wheel covers
- Skirts for rear wheels
- Delete passenger side mirror
- Brighter LED reverse lights
- K&N air filter?
- Sound dampening? Adds weight but makes for more comfortable long trips.
Sound Dampening
I moved this story to its own page, see Seeking a quieter Yaris.
GPS
Currently using a Garmin 1390T with the EcoRoute HD module. Mixed results. The 'T' stands for traffic and it turns out when you are in range, "offers" read "ads" pop up from time to time. Garmin needs to be more transparent about this. The only way to disable it is to disable the traffic feature.
The EcoRoute HD is an OBD to Bluetooth module, it plugs into the OBD II port so you can monitor things like coolant temperature and battery voltage and RPM. It's not worth $149. The display is pretty but I think a Scangauge is probably a better investment. I am saying this AND I own Garmin stock!
I also have an 855 and I think it's better than the 1390T, but does not have the support for the EcoRoute HD. Lots of little things, for example the voice stutters sometimes on the 1390T and is smooth and flawless on the 855.
On our recent vacation trip we had beau coup problems with the 1390T.
Once it locked into traffic reports in SF, it downloaded 3 "offers" and thereafter it would show an offer every 20 minutes or so and then reboot itself.
Since we rely on the speedo display, this was pretty ANNOYING.
Garmin's advice is to completely reload the firmware from scratch and then disable the traffic feature, whee! Sure am glad I paid extra for traffic.
At this point I might just sell the 1390T and ecoRoute HD on EBay and go back to using the 855...
I am also plotting out a Linux dashboard! So tired of closed boxes!
FoxtrotGPS here we come. I just installed a UBlox GPS. The antenna is near the hatch, runs through the hatch opening under the weatherstripping, under the rear deck. Receiver is under the deck that used to be the back seat. It has a bit of velcro hooks so it sticks to the carpet. A USB cable then comes up between the front seats and is available for whatever computer I end up installing.
Onboard Computer
Aug 2010 - I ordered a tablet computer from Always Innovating. http://alwaysinnovating.com/
I am now on their waiting list...
Oct 2010 - I decided this was not the best way to go. Pricewise it looks like a good deal, but the screens (there are 2 now) are too big (9.4") and too small (3.5")
Today I ordered a 7" monitor, a Lilliput UM70 using DisplayLink (USB) technology from MP3Car. I like the DisplayLink idea, since it means only a skinny little USB cable has to go from the monitor to the computer, and it provides video, touch and power connections.
Eventually I'd like to replace the indash stereo with a dual din enclosure and a smaller mainboard. Every time I mention this idea to my wife she gets a worried look on her face and says how much she likes the (working) stereo. So it might be a while.
Some possible mainboards would be the BeagleBoard, the new PandaBoard, or a Marvell Plug computer like the GuruPlug. (I got this last idea from MP3car.)
For now I am going to use an old Via EPIA CN10000 system as a development platform. See 8track for the continuing story.
