FutureKit Temperature Controller: Difference between revisions

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I bought this figuring it looked like a fun board to reprogram if I did not use it as a temperature controller. I don't see any source code floating around the Internet for it, so I will create some. :-)  
I bought this figuring it looked like a fun board to reprogram if I did not use it as a temperature controller. I don't see any source code floating around the Internet for it, so I will create some. :-)  


First I thought I'd try it out in its stock form. Then I packed and moved from Oregon to California and lost the controller! I am sure it's one of my storage bins! But coding is more fun that searching bins...
First I thought I'd try it out in its stock form. Then I packed and moved from Oregon to California and lost the ATmega8 microcontroller! I am sure it's one of my storage bins! But coding is more fun that searching bins...


Here is the [http://futurekit.com/2009/manual/future/eng/PDF_FK9/fk951te-1_a3.pdf data sheet for this kit].
Here is the [http://futurekit.com/2009/manual/future/eng/PDF_FK9/fk951te-1_a3.pdf data sheet for this kit].
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Board input power is spec'ed at 12vdc, so that the 12v relay can fire. I bet it would work down to the dropout of the voltage regulator, which must be around 8 volts. High voltage input is determined by other components (like electrolytic caps) but should be fine up to about 14vdc.
Board input power is spec'ed at 12vdc, so that the 12v relay can fire. I bet it would work down to the dropout of the voltage regulator, which must be around 8 volts. High voltage input is determined by other components (like electrolytic caps) but should be fine up to about 14vdc.


The controller that I lost is an ATMega8, I am upgrading to an ATmega328P to make it more compatible with my shiny new [[Arduino Uno]]. It will drop right in. I bought a replacement along with a USB tiny ISP programmer from Sparkfun; this board has pads for a 6 pin inline header that taps into the ICSP lines so I can reprogram the controller in situ.
I am upgrading to an ATmega328P microcontroller to make it more compatible with my shiny new [[Arduino Uno]]. It will drop right in. I bought a replacement along with a USB tiny ISP programmer from Sparkfun; this board has pads for a 6 pin inline header that taps into the ICSP lines so I can reprogram the controller in situ.


Sensors are one-wire DS18B20 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/245
Sensors are one-wire DS18B20 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/245
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7 segment LED display:
7 segment LED display:
port D0-D7 control the segments:
port D0-D7 control the segments:
  D0 g
  PD0 g
  D1 c
  PD1 c
  D2 d
  PD2 d
  D3 e
  PD3 e
  D4 dt
  PD4 dt
  D5 b
  PD5 b
  D6 f
  PD6 f
  D7 a
  PD7 a
port B0,C3,C4,C5 select the digit
port PB0,PC3,PC4,PC5 select the digit
  C5 1 (numbered left to right)
  PC5 1 (numbered left to right)
  C4 2
  PC4 2
  C3 3
  PC3 3
  B0 4
  PB0 4


Push buttons are on
Push buttons are on
  1 MOSI
  1 PB3 (MOSI)
  2 MISO
  2 PB4 (MISO)
  3 SCK
  3 PB5 (SCK)
  4 D7 (shared with 7-seg segment 'a')
  4 PD7 (shared with 7-seg segment 'a')
  5 D6 (shared with 'f')
  5 PD6 (shared with 'f')


Relay is on C0
Relay is on C0
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optional sensor #2 is on port B2
optional sensor #2 is on port B2


There is a programming port 1x6
1 RST
2 GND
3 MOSI
4 MISO
5 SCK
6 +5V
There is a 2x3 port, undocumented
PC1 (ADC1/PCINT9)  1  6  PC2 (ADC2/PCINT10)
              GND  2  5  GND
              +12V 3  4  +12V


[[Category: Electronics]]
[[Category: Electronics]]

Revision as of 00:55, 29 July 2015

I bought this figuring it looked like a fun board to reprogram if I did not use it as a temperature controller. I don't see any source code floating around the Internet for it, so I will create some. :-)

First I thought I'd try it out in its stock form. Then I packed and moved from Oregon to California and lost the ATmega8 microcontroller! I am sure it's one of my storage bins! But coding is more fun that searching bins...

Here is the data sheet for this kit.

This is an approximately 8x10cm card with a large 4 digit red LED display, 5 push buttons, relay, LED, two 3 pin headers to connect temperature sensors via 3 wire ribbon, and a 7806 6vdc regulator. (6 volt? really? There is a diode inline that drops it below the 5.5vmax for the CPU.)

Board input power is spec'ed at 12vdc, so that the 12v relay can fire. I bet it would work down to the dropout of the voltage regulator, which must be around 8 volts. High voltage input is determined by other components (like electrolytic caps) but should be fine up to about 14vdc.

I am upgrading to an ATmega328P microcontroller to make it more compatible with my shiny new Arduino Uno. It will drop right in. I bought a replacement along with a USB tiny ISP programmer from Sparkfun; this board has pads for a 6 pin inline header that taps into the ICSP lines so I can reprogram the controller in situ.

Sensors are one-wire DS18B20 https://www.sparkfun.com/products/245

7 segment LED display: port D0-D7 control the segments:

PD0 g
PD1 c
PD2 d
PD3 e
PD4 dt
PD5 b
PD6 f
PD7 a

port PB0,PC3,PC4,PC5 select the digit

PC5 1 (numbered left to right)
PC4 2
PC3 3
PB0 4

Push buttons are on

1 PB3 (MOSI)
2 PB4 (MISO)
3 PB5 (SCK)
4 PD7 (shared with 7-seg segment 'a')
5 PD6 (shared with 'f')

Relay is on C0

Sensor #1 is on port B1 optional sensor #2 is on port B2

There is a programming port 1x6

1 RST
2 GND
3 MOSI
4 MISO
5 SCK
6 +5V

There is a 2x3 port, undocumented

PC1 (ADC1/PCINT9)  1  6  PC2 (ADC2/PCINT10)
              GND  2  5  GND
              +12V 3  4  +12V